Mt. Kurama
Cantering along the forested hiking trail up Mt. Kurama, on the outskirts of Kyoto, Aunt Hisako and I keep out of sight as the sun descends in the sky. We ensure no one’s watching, bow before quickly ducking under a hidden torii gate just outside the tiny town named after the mountain, and lope into the realm of the sacred. Why didn’t we take the path to the temple?
Located only about a half hour drive or 1.5 hour train ride from central Kyoto, Mt. Kurama is a secluded peak sheltered by distance from the big city hustle and bustle. This mountain is where the healing art of reiki started and the location of Kuramadera, a Buddhist temple and considered one of the power spots of Japan. To get to the Kuramadera temple complex and trail over the ridge you can climb the steep stone stairs for a good 30 minutes or take the tram that goes up the steep hillside then walk the short trail around the side of the mountain. The mountain is home to Soujou-bou (king of the Tengu) and his castle complex. But exactly where his majestic home is located remains a mystery. Legends don't give its precise coordinates and hikers and satellite data haven't revealed the site.
Geography
Mt. Kurama is located north of Kyoto and west of Lake Biwa, Japan's largest lake. It's slopes are steep and sometimes the cedars that grow seem like they go straight up into the sky. A crystal clear river runs along the west-side valley floor and follows the highway farther into the mountain forest.Rumors and Legends
Rumors of tengu on the mountain still circulate, though they've died down over the last century. Minamoto no Yoshitsune, one of the most famous samurai, is said to have been trained here by Soujou-bou, himself.Tourism vs. Sheltering the Local Residents
It's not as popular a destination as say, Fushimi Inari. But the mountain hosts Kuramadera, a hiking trail that leads to Kibune (a small town on the opposite side of the mountain from Kurama) and the associated shrine of Kifune. It's protected from overtourism by Soujou-bou's magical wards that distract and drive away those seeking him, unless he gives them permission to visit. He and the locals value the mountain's tranquility. Though he tries to strike a balance in allowing visitors, because he understands the residents of the little tourist town of Kurama town need to make a living.Work in Progress
This article will be expanded in the future.
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It looks beautiful. It's so fun that you actually got to visit here in real life.
Explore Etrea
Thank you! On each trip to Japan, I try to visit a something fun and myth/folklore related. :D